Toile and Toile Again

toile 1 fronttoile 1 back

Toile 1: In a state of stretch naievety, I sewed the first toile with a straight stitch and bagged out seams. Nonetheless, the overall the fit worked well. I did need to recut the ‘sail’ shape though and elasticate the bust and thighs. Although I initially sewed the zulu rope into the panel lines, I decided to hand sew it over the seam in future toiles to avoid too much bulk within the seams.


sample front closesample back close

Sample: For the ‘sail’ I divided the base pattern into segments, which I sewed together. Then I reverse side twin needle stitched along the seam lines. The point at which the ‘sail’ met the left and bust panels was incorrect and I later reworked the pattern to rectify this. The swimsuit also sat a little low on the model’s bust. To reduce gaping at the waist, but avoid obtrusive twin needled elasticating, I had sewn elastic into the bagged out seam of the centre panel. This worked effectively. However, Jillian suggested binding around the edges of the ‘sail’ to prevent the stretch fabric from wrinkling across the body. The elasticating and twin needling at the top of the swimsuit gave a clean, uninterrupted line. However, I decided to bind in future, so that the binding could extend into a strap and provide extra support underneath the decorative zulu knot.


toile 3 fronttoile 3 bust

Toile 3: I added height to the bust and therefore needed to widen the dart. Although I attempted binding around the ‘sail’ piece, I felt it was inconsistent with my design concept. The severe edge restricted the free flowing ‘sail’ shape.


toile 4 fronttoile 4 pinned waist

Toile 4: This was a very rough unfinished toile to focus on attaining a good fit on the ‘sail’, which wouldn’t gape at the waist or crinkle on the hip. I added a dart to the patern where the fabric is pinned and then pivoted this out.

toile 5 insidetoile 5 waist

Toile 5: The main aim of this toile was to perfect my finishes before I made the final garment in wool. My construction method ensures that all seams are internal and no overlocking will be seen (bar the elasticated bottom hem around the thighs). I also wanted to finalise the fit around the waist, which I was happy with. However, the ‘sail’ peak finished too low and I recut the pattern so that it would meet the body.


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