The caped creature is well on its way, despite my eternal challenge (not to mention my lack of blog contribution beside my menial first paragraph): construction! How to choose between the bind, the hem, the rolled hem, the double rolled hem, the hem hem hem…?
I’ll take a few steps back to give context to this wild creation.
Stretchwear, and its development, has so far proved to be indeed a wild process. For my obsession with the streamlined, little do I need darts, clips, buttons, tulle, zips, stuffing, pleats and all their variations.
The patternmaking began without the usual distractions I create for myself. I tried a new approach to pencil on paper – I draped. Something that has always made more sense to me finally became a reality as I fitted the fabric on the mannequin where it belonged. Then I developed the pattern on paper, then the mannequin, then the paper, then the mannequin. This process sounds more tedious then it is, as for me, hours of measuring and adjusting by only millimetres is what the most challenging part of designing has been. So drapery capery is my way forward.
So, I watched fabric and the body negotiate the best fit between themselves (with my nurturing guidance).
Now, the conundrum is as follows:
– I am constructing a very fitted body with a very draped cape.
– I would like to be consistent with finishings ie. Hems, topstitching to create a streamlined figure
– You can’t be consistent with finishings when you have a fitted body and a draped cape as different finishings are needed for different fits
Por ejemplo (for example), top stitching without elastic stretches the fabric out. But with elastic it pulls it in. So, if I use top stitching as a finish all over, it will not fit properly. As half the garment is tight, and the other loose, with all the same finishings, I have created a monster (not a fine creature) where the leg holes are baggy and the cape is restrictive. See now the images of the heavy cape (it should flow daintily). Unfortunately, due to the sucking-of-life-black, it will be difficult to see these flaws described.
Herein lies my construction challenge.
Next episode: an actually explanation as to why my swimsuit has a cape. Then, tips on how to make a streamlined design into a streamlined garment.